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Post by Vintageshopnut on Mar 24, 2012 21:53:12 GMT -5
I'm getting ready to paint and want to reseal the outside but I'm unsure what exactly I should be resealing aside from the obvious windows. It looks to me like the aluminum top wraps over the sides so I'm unclear why resealing the rail is necessary. Can someone give me some insight here? Is the purpose to prevent condensation or ?? From everything I've read, the condensation inside the aluminum is just a matter of physics so want to make sure I'm not wasting my time trying to seal something that can't really be sealed without tearing down the whole trailer and adding additional vapor barriors.
To give you some background, the trailer has always been in an arid climate but when I bought the trailer there is definitely some mildew along the edges inside. I have had the trailer out in heavy rains while camping but can't detect any leaks so unsure if I have a problem or just a 52 year old trailer! Thanks.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Mar 24, 2012 23:41:38 GMT -5
The edge trim, windows and door are installed with RV putty tape. Over time, it dries out and forms gaps. The biggest "leaker" in a vintage trailer is the edge trim. It needs to be removed, cleaned and re-puttied.
Weather changes are often responsible for edge putty failure. Really hot sun will melt it, freeze/thaw cycles form gaps that allow water into the walls. The metal does wrap over the edge, but there are staples, nails and screw holes. Every one can leak without a good putty seal.
Hope this helps. "Sealing" with caulk will not remedy failed putty...
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Post by Vintageshopnut on Mar 25, 2012 9:47:53 GMT -5
Makes sense. Thanks Vikx!
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Post by lopo on Mar 25, 2012 9:56:17 GMT -5
Are we talking about the edge trim down the 4 "corners" of the trailer, from top to bottom?
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Post by thehorsepeople4 on Mar 25, 2012 14:34:18 GMT -5
That's how I did mine. If there was J rail, window covers or trim or anything that had a screw that into the tin...I put putty under it. our59deville.blogspot.com/ |
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Mar 26, 2012 2:47:34 GMT -5
Yes, all of the edge trim, from the rear edges over the top to the bottom front.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 26, 2012 10:34:26 GMT -5
Yup, if the edging itself di the trick, we'd not see the rotting fram pieces that are so common. Butyl tape is easy to use, but it always takes more than you'd think!
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Post by Vintageshopnut on Mar 26, 2012 19:05:34 GMT -5
Yeah, I figured I had to do it but I've got that silver slop that is completely covering all of my screws so I'm going to have to dig each one out of it. I'll post a picture as soon as I can figure out how to do it. It's really kind of funny. I guess it was the PO's way of trying to seal it.
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Post by kirkadie on Mar 26, 2012 20:52:28 GMT -5
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Post by kirkadie on Mar 26, 2012 20:53:06 GMT -5
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Post by Vintageshopnut on Mar 27, 2012 0:53:49 GMT -5
This will be fun to take off.... Attachments:
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Bob
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Pictures are still on my blog: thisoldcamper.com
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Post by Bob on Mar 27, 2012 4:10:50 GMT -5
I used a pressure washer with a fine spray tip and blew the paint right out of the screw heads.
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Post by lopo on Mar 27, 2012 7:41:21 GMT -5
I have been looking around online and I can't figure out this "white sealing tape." I see various types of white tape. Does anyone know where to get it and what specifically it's called? Any experience with it vs. the gray butyl tape?
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cowcharge
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I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 27, 2012 14:33:04 GMT -5
As I understand it (someone correct me if I'm wrong, since putty tape is the only one I've used), neither one is a "tape" in the common sense of say electrician's tape, in that they don't have a permanent backing or structural component that remains with the adhesive, just peel-off backings, so they stick on both sides, and can be shaped. Butyl tape is black, very sticky stuff, like they use to hold and seal car windshields. A PITA to remove, and it sticks to itself and can't be repositioned, but lasts longer and seals better. Putty tape (what was used to build the trailers) is grey, with a wrinkly paper backing, and feels like modeling clay (what I used, inexpensive at any RV store). It is much easier to work with and removes without solvents, but doesn't seal as well or last as long. The putty tape that is exposed to the elements eventually dries out, but the stuff between the layers stays soft, at least on my '76 it did.
On my camper, there was putty tape between the two layers of aluminum where it wraps down from the roof, in addition to the layer between the j-channel and the side. The only place there wasn't a layer between the two layers of skin was at the bottom edge. So when you re-nail the roof aluminum, the layer between gets squeezed to seal between the skins.
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Post by Vintageshopnut on Mar 27, 2012 22:34:15 GMT -5
Potomac,
Thanks for the input. That isn't paint I've got covering the screws. Whatever it is, it made the screws really soft. I ended up using an awl and carved out slots or philliip crosses right into the metal. Wasn't AS difficult as it looked but had to hand loosen every darned screw since the screws were mushy. I asked my husband to help but stripped the very first one he tried and I had recarve a new slot. Hard to explain but whatever that silver stuff is, it's harsh. Haven't yet tackled stripping it off the aluminum top but I'm concerned what kind of damage it may have caused. I'm far, far from an expert but yikes that stuff is nasty. Good news is, got the rails off! Now just have to figure out how to get the silver crud off them. May have to consider just getting new ones or painting them as I've seen others do. Turning into a money pit!
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Post by Vintageshopnut on Mar 27, 2012 22:40:23 GMT -5
Cowcharge,
Vintage trailer sells the gray stuff as butyl. Not sure that' what what I SHOULD be using but thats what I've been using. Easy to get off with a putty knife.
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vikx
3K Post Member
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Post by vikx on Mar 29, 2012 0:32:40 GMT -5
There are several RV putty tapes available. The old standard was grey putty tape; like we find in our vintage rigs. It was greyish/tan and still works very well.
The new RV putty seems to be a mix of butyl and putty? It is much lighter, almost white.
True butyl is grey and very very sticky. It also works well for metal to metal applications but is harder to work with than the above. I use "Tacky Tape" (1/2" x 1/16") for narrow areas and behind the old back frame window gaskets. Tacky is sold at roof supply places.
Punky Screws: I use a Dremel to cut slots in the head. A little easier to remove sometimes.
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