Butyl tape under roof edge.

[franksshasta]

Can I assume that it is required to replace the butyl tape "under" the roof flap where the drip rail screws to? Other than historical correctness, is there any other reason why silicone sealant isn't used instead of butyl.

[joek]

There may be other reasons, but two mechanical reasons come to mind. First, it will be really hard to take apartm, though hopefully you will never need to. Second, silicone is NOT paintable. If you decide to go with a caulk seal, go with Vulkem/TremPro. Which bring to mind another reason. The butyl tape is neat, whereas a caulk will be messy as heck during assembly. Those are my 2 cents, use them for what they're worth.

[franksshasta]

How difficult was it to pull all those nails and pull up that bend along that entire length?

[joek]

Pulling the nails is not too hard. Once you get the technique down, it gioes pretty fast, and there aren't that many nails, as they were just used mto hold it temporarily until the screws came.

Bending the edge was not too hard. I used a 3" handbrake, which is like a pair of pliers with 3" wide jaws. I bent it up just a little, maybe 10 degrees. Just enough to get it out of the way of the butyl tape. But it was not a cake walk either and I could certainly see the advantage and appeal of just squirting something in there.

I read on another forum where one of the more experienced members said not to put anything in between the side and roof skins. If the skin sits nice and tight, and butyl tape from the drip edge covered the seam, I don't see what would be wrong with that, and it would certainly make the job alot easier. I ended up somewhat unattractive seams, and still have to figure a way to pretty it up. I am thinking of using Vulkem, against my own better judgement.

[rkymtnman]

When I took mine apart - there was nothing between the side skin and roof. It was wood, then side skin, then roof (bent over and nailed) then butyl (or whatever they used in 1964) then drip edge.

I was going to put it back together just like that with nothing between the wood, side skin and roof metal.

Can someone confirm the best way to do this???

[franksshasta]

Being a carpenter, one of the cardinal rules is to always think like a raindrop when installing any roof structure. The problem with not putting putty between the overlap and the side skins in the lower 2-3 feet where is curves back in. As water runs down the side, it "WILL" go between this seam unless there is a sealant of some sort. Even having a good seal doesn't last forever as many of us with rotten corners can attest to. I would say at the very least put putty tape from the windows down and let gravity do the rest. I will be replacing all of the putty tape as it was from the factory.