Sealing Fan-Tastic Fan

[cropper2]

Hello!

I've removed the original ceiling vent and plan to replace it with a Fan-Tastic fan.

I've been working on removing the ton of black tar goo that had been patched all around the original vent. Once that is clean, I'll install the new Fan-Tastic fan. My question is about how to best seal that. Butyl tape is too narrow and likely also too thin.

I would very much like to avoid all of that caulking on this lovely new installation. What do you suggest?

[universalexports]

I just used Butyl tape on mine it flattens out a lot when you tighten the screws, I done the glue a piece of toothpick is the original screw hole so the screws grab very well, then a thin bead of silicone around the edge, it doesnt look bad, white on white, (and there is an art to laying down a nice flat bead of silicone). and it is on the roof and can not be seen, I had rather have it, than risk a leak, and I dont know of another fullproof way to do it.

[cropper2]

Good point, Universal. No one will see it, so better safe than sorry.

Did you use 3/4" Butyl?

[universalexports]

I didnt measure it, but yeah thats about what it looked like.

[vikx]

A foam gasket is included with every Fantastic that works very well. Putty tape is also a good option, 3/4 x 1/8. Dicor self leveling Lap sealant is the best sealant for the screw heads and flange. I would not use silicone. It tends to fail early and peel, especially in very hot summer temps.

[cropper2]

Hey! It's me again! I test fitted the Fan-Tastic fan this weekend, but I'm darned confused about how best to install it.

I have the styrofoam gasket that came with it, Dicor self-leveling sealant and the very dark gray (almost black) super sticky butyl tape. I now have the top of the camper clean (well, at least around the fan flange, that is). To get a good tight, waterproof seal, what do I put down first, second, (third?)?

Thanks!

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[dawgpound]

I have never used the foam seals that come with the fan units. I just use a layer of butyl tape and the run a bead of DICOR Self Leveling Sealant along the seam and around the screw heads. Easy, Peasy!!

[cropper2]

So, butyl tape "under" the fan flange edges, then the Dicor in the holes and around the edges once it is screwed into place, right?

['59PinkDeluxe]

That's exactly what I did (3/4 butyl... which fills the space very well, and Dicor on the edge and on top of every screw). I feel very confident that it won't leak. I was not timid about putting plenty of Dicor on. I was generous and not too concerned about looks as no one will see it. Also, have never seen butyl that's almost black. Make sure it's butyl and not something else. Good luck:)

[boandsusan]

If its nearly black and super sticky, I don`t think its butyl tape. Another name for butyl tape is putty tape. I`ve only seen it in grey and cream. Never dark.

[cowcharge]

Ah, the old "butyl or not butyl" question. I'm still not 100% positive, but this is the conclusion I've reached so far. In the old days, putty tape was made entirely of mastic, aka "plumber's putty", or the stuff that people used to put between their wooden storm windows and their houses every fall when they hung the storm windows back up. It acts like modeling clay from fourth-grade art class, you can squish it together, roll it into "rope" shapes, remove or reposition it, do whatever you want with it. It's not that sticky. Pure Butyl is black, infuriatingly sticky and uncooperative, and was/is used to hold car windshields in place, and is made of synthetic rubber. I think the third type is where the confusion comes from. Nowadays there are two types of putty tape. Original, and another variety that includes some butyl rubber in it to make it stickier, but not as sticky as "pure" butyl. I believe a PO used pure black butyl to seal my roof vent, and I hate them for it. Anyone got better info?

[dawgpound]

Sounds right to me, Howard. I went to a salvage yard that had a few RV's and I pulled a few parts. They were sealed with that black sticky tape. Almost impossible to pull the parts with out doing damage to the part. That stuff doesn't want to let go

[cropper2]

We have a wonderful old family-owned hardware store close to where I live that has people in it who actually know how to do stuff. It is a heavenly place. One of the gents in there (the crabbiest and cleverest of them all) explained to me much what cowcharge said. The original butyl is almost like tar and absolutely black. Then there is putty tape that is pale gray or white. What I have is a sort of hybrid that is very dark gray and comes in a roll with paper around it. If the paper is on it, I can press on it, etc., but if I press it with a finger or glove, I stick. It isn't gloppy, though, like the pure black stuff. I got what I have from Vintage Trailer Supply.

[dawgpound]

Here's an easy tip for working with the butyl tape, especially in the hotter months. Put the roll of tape in the freezer for 30 minutes or so. When working with the tape, it will not stick to your fingers and will pull apart easily.

[cropper2]

Ooooooo!! Good tip! Wish I'd had it last Sunday (94 degrees) when I was trying to get that dadblamed back window in place. I'll remember it for the next window, that's for sure.

Thanks.

[cowcharge]

I've been using the original stuff I think, bought at my local rv store, it's pale grey and has wrinkly paper. When it's cold it tends to fall off the aluminum if you don't press fairly hard on the paper, and doesn't really stick to my fingers at all, so it's kind of the opposite of the stuff you put in the freezer temp-wise, it likes to be reasonably warm. I then pull the paper off parallel to and close to the tape itself, so it doesn't pull it back off the skin.

[joecamper]

If you use this product it will not leak. Ever. Period.

Don't expect to convince everyone. Just wanted to pass on what I have moved to.

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[joecamper]

Another shot.

This will outlast all other fixes by greater than twice.

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[joecamper]

Do not leave that seam to chance. Dont take long to ruin the beefy 3/4 framing that would utherwise be vunurable.

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[cowcharge]

I bought the Eternabond tape for my cross-roof seams, stuck with putty tape for the edges and under the vents and water heater and such. I might, if I have any E tape left over, cover the vent edges with it though.

[cropper2]

Cross roof seams! I didn't know what to call the seam that runs out from either side of the vent. There is something horrendous on there now. Black tape of some sort. Regarding that, if I can pull off the "paper" part of that black tape and apply the E tape over that, is that a reasonable approach? Or must I remove all of that massively sticky black goo off also?

[universalexports]

I would rather have everything off, you are not talking about a huge area, a razor scraper works wonders.

[cropper2]

Got it!

[vikx]

Eternabond is a great product but I don't recommend it on a trailer you will be calling "restored". I have many years experience using it with good results. However, it can fail, especially in very high temperatures.

[cropper2]

Thanks Vikx. I think that my work falls into the "fixing" category, versus the brilliant "restoration" category that so many on this forum are doing. Maybe I can get to restoration on my 2nd camper.

I am in Maryland, where we get a few 100+ degree days in the summer, but not a lot of them. Of course, having said that, it was in the mid 90s here yesterday and is supposed to be the same today. If it is in the 90s in June, than we can expect a fairly horrid August, I suppose. But this is all odd.

Do you have another suggestion on something to use for the seam in the middle of the roof? Is there something more reliable than the Eternabond?