embee
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by embee on Jun 15, 2012 19:57:33 GMT -5
Our Dometic three-way fridge is now a one-way: propane only. I've checked the fuse, power gets as far as I can reach. Part of the problem is someone siliconed the whole thing into it's compartment--not easy to get at the back of the unit; can't pull it out, easily. No 12V or 120V action.
Anyone want to guess at the most likely failure? Heating element?
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Post by joecamper on Jun 15, 2012 21:40:31 GMT -5
Here is what you do. Identify the a/c heating element it will be towards the bottom of the chimney do not confuse it with other potentially present element or sensors of any kind.
When your sure you have it Take the 2 wire end terminals off the element. Take an extension cord and cut the end off. Attatch the corrisponding end terminal connectors that will attatch it to your heating element. hook itto the element and plug it in an outlet.
That is how any r/v tech would test that problem. That bypasses everything electronic and is a simple test that answers questions.
If it works its either power or the board. If it doesnt its the element.
Do not attempt to opporate the fridge in this configuration for any prolonged period of time it will potentially eventually freeze the contents depending on preformance and ambient temps.
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Post by joecamper on Jun 15, 2012 21:43:33 GMT -5
Beware
All siliconed up may be to create good draft and cooling preformance. cant just have it in there sometimes they wont convect off the heat good.
Sounds like you could redo it better
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Jun 16, 2012 1:47:57 GMT -5
What approx. year is the Fridge? And do you have a model #? Thanks.
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embee
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by embee on Jun 16, 2012 12:57:14 GMT -5
Not sure of the year. I'd say '80s or later. It's an RM211.
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embee
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by embee on Jun 16, 2012 13:14:54 GMT -5
Well, here's the manual for this fridge: www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/DometicRM211.pdfI've got a hard copy of it, also. Good advice, joecamper, just what I would do, but access is tough. I can't get at the "switch" part. Even if I figure out what's wrong, I'm going to have a very hard time making the repair. Un-siliconing, for starters....
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Post by orbitmonkey on Jun 2, 2013 2:13:25 GMT -5
$40 for new thermostat. problem solved....99% sure.
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