Post by joek on Apr 28, 2010 21:40:36 GMT -5
Well, I'm still learning here, but I'm certainly the type to just jump in head first before checking to see how deep the water is. I couldn't find any info on doing this on the web, but I didn't look too hard either. This was my first time and was my experience with it, hope it helps someone. I think a lot of it is common sense as well. If you have any questions, send ‘em along.
The aluminum sheet I used came in 4’ x 8’ pieces. I used all .040 thickness. They called it 50/52 aluminum, but I don’t know what that refers to. The siding I took off the trailer was .024 on the sides .040 on the top, front and back. I decided to go with all .040 because it is a lot stronger, and figured it would resist damage better. That and the supplier I went to only had the one thickness.
From the bottom of the front window, over the roof and to the bottom of the rear window, it is all smooth. The front, below the window had a standard 6” brake pattern, though reversed from the sides. The back had a slightly more complicated pattern, it looks like it was spaced so the brake lines aligned with the side lines.
With an experienced sheetmetal guy at your side, it's not too hard. My buddy helped me do all the brake work. He is a very innovative guy and pretty much thinks anything is possible. My kinda guy! The hardest thing was actually the Pittsburgh edge, but we figured it out and it came out great. Just make samples until you get it. There was lots of flipping pieces over, inserting them front, then back, and finally crushing it.
If you're doing any roof panels, you'll need to find an Acme seam machine. The machine my buddy had was for regular 16 or 24 gauge galvanized sheet metal. We ran a test piece of my aluminum and it just crushed the aluminum, because it was so much thicker. But turned out there was adjustment nuts and after a few turns, we were set to go.
These are 2 shapes that hook together, and then must be pressed tight. In my case, I couldn't press them together because one of the pieces was still on the roof. So I built a simple brace on the underside of the seam and hammered it together with a rubber mallet from above. I put a fat bead of Vulkem inside the seam before assembly. Even so, it did leak in our last rain storm. We figured that the process of hammering of it together created air bubbles in the sealant. And since the ends are crushed and under the rain gutter, the water can’t drain out. I have since applied a good bead of Vulkem on top of the seam, and this seems to have sealed the seam.
Installing the sides is pretty easy. I found it easiest to install it, climb inside and mark the openings with a sharpie. Then I’d take it back off, and do the cut outs using a jigsaw fitted with a fine metal blade. The aluminum has a durable plastic film on it that absorbs most scratches, and peels off when you’re done.
Installing the front, back or roof, where it bends onto the sides, can be a challenge. Re-installing older pieces is no picnic, and that is already bent for you. At first I tried hammering the edges down with a rubber mallet. While that works, you can’t get the last few degrees needed. Using a small 3” handbrake turned out to be the ticket. Here is what I did. Again, install the pieces and mark the edge with a sharpie. Then remove it and use the hand brake to fold the edge over, pulling it to about 95 degrees, then push it back to 85 degrees. Make sure you leave the line, you’ll need this for the added thickness of the putty tape. Once the piece has folded edges, it won’t want to bend to follow the curves any more. Now you’ll want to install the putty tape to the side of the trailer. Once that is done, hook the panel on at the bottom at one edge and put a temporary screw in the side. Then go to the other side and pull it on and tight. I put a clamp at the top to hold the upper weight while working on it. Start working the panel tight to follow the curve of the frame, pushing it tight and adding a screw to the edge to hold it in place as needed. The edge will start to wrinkle, but you will work this out later. I ended up with about 5 screws on each side. Once you have the panel on, you can go back and start working on getting the edges tight and working out the wrinkles. I just stuck a stiff putty knife between the putty tape and panel edge and pound it flat with a regular hammer. Some of the harder curves, I found myself with a rubber mallet in one hand and metal hammer in the other. The rubber mallet hits the back, and the metal hammer hits side. Once you have the shape you like, start installing brads in place of the screws.
Once you have the panels all on, you can start installing the drip rails. Make sure you have cleaned all of the old putty off both surfaces, install new putty and put those rails on. I found the screws wouldn’t really pull it tight, they tended to strip out in the wood before squeezing tight to the putty tape. So I took a ¾” pipe clamp mounted on 10’ of pipe. I had to grind the pipe clamp heads a bit, so that the point of contact was all the way into the drip rail. The I squeezed it just where I wanted it and installed the screws. Mine trailer originally had #6 x ¾” screws in all the drip rails, but I have learned that most others had #8 screws. So I’ll be changing out all of the #6s for #8s when I get the chance. Anyway, once you’re done, trim off the excess putty tape, sit back, and enjoy a cold beverage of your choice.
The aluminum sheet I used came in 4’ x 8’ pieces. I used all .040 thickness. They called it 50/52 aluminum, but I don’t know what that refers to. The siding I took off the trailer was .024 on the sides .040 on the top, front and back. I decided to go with all .040 because it is a lot stronger, and figured it would resist damage better. That and the supplier I went to only had the one thickness.
From the bottom of the front window, over the roof and to the bottom of the rear window, it is all smooth. The front, below the window had a standard 6” brake pattern, though reversed from the sides. The back had a slightly more complicated pattern, it looks like it was spaced so the brake lines aligned with the side lines.
With an experienced sheetmetal guy at your side, it's not too hard. My buddy helped me do all the brake work. He is a very innovative guy and pretty much thinks anything is possible. My kinda guy! The hardest thing was actually the Pittsburgh edge, but we figured it out and it came out great. Just make samples until you get it. There was lots of flipping pieces over, inserting them front, then back, and finally crushing it.
If you're doing any roof panels, you'll need to find an Acme seam machine. The machine my buddy had was for regular 16 or 24 gauge galvanized sheet metal. We ran a test piece of my aluminum and it just crushed the aluminum, because it was so much thicker. But turned out there was adjustment nuts and after a few turns, we were set to go.
These are 2 shapes that hook together, and then must be pressed tight. In my case, I couldn't press them together because one of the pieces was still on the roof. So I built a simple brace on the underside of the seam and hammered it together with a rubber mallet from above. I put a fat bead of Vulkem inside the seam before assembly. Even so, it did leak in our last rain storm. We figured that the process of hammering of it together created air bubbles in the sealant. And since the ends are crushed and under the rain gutter, the water can’t drain out. I have since applied a good bead of Vulkem on top of the seam, and this seems to have sealed the seam.
Installing the sides is pretty easy. I found it easiest to install it, climb inside and mark the openings with a sharpie. Then I’d take it back off, and do the cut outs using a jigsaw fitted with a fine metal blade. The aluminum has a durable plastic film on it that absorbs most scratches, and peels off when you’re done.
Installing the front, back or roof, where it bends onto the sides, can be a challenge. Re-installing older pieces is no picnic, and that is already bent for you. At first I tried hammering the edges down with a rubber mallet. While that works, you can’t get the last few degrees needed. Using a small 3” handbrake turned out to be the ticket. Here is what I did. Again, install the pieces and mark the edge with a sharpie. Then remove it and use the hand brake to fold the edge over, pulling it to about 95 degrees, then push it back to 85 degrees. Make sure you leave the line, you’ll need this for the added thickness of the putty tape. Once the piece has folded edges, it won’t want to bend to follow the curves any more. Now you’ll want to install the putty tape to the side of the trailer. Once that is done, hook the panel on at the bottom at one edge and put a temporary screw in the side. Then go to the other side and pull it on and tight. I put a clamp at the top to hold the upper weight while working on it. Start working the panel tight to follow the curve of the frame, pushing it tight and adding a screw to the edge to hold it in place as needed. The edge will start to wrinkle, but you will work this out later. I ended up with about 5 screws on each side. Once you have the panel on, you can go back and start working on getting the edges tight and working out the wrinkles. I just stuck a stiff putty knife between the putty tape and panel edge and pound it flat with a regular hammer. Some of the harder curves, I found myself with a rubber mallet in one hand and metal hammer in the other. The rubber mallet hits the back, and the metal hammer hits side. Once you have the shape you like, start installing brads in place of the screws.
Once you have the panels all on, you can start installing the drip rails. Make sure you have cleaned all of the old putty off both surfaces, install new putty and put those rails on. I found the screws wouldn’t really pull it tight, they tended to strip out in the wood before squeezing tight to the putty tape. So I took a ¾” pipe clamp mounted on 10’ of pipe. I had to grind the pipe clamp heads a bit, so that the point of contact was all the way into the drip rail. The I squeezed it just where I wanted it and installed the screws. Mine trailer originally had #6 x ¾” screws in all the drip rails, but I have learned that most others had #8 screws. So I’ll be changing out all of the #6s for #8s when I get the chance. Anyway, once you’re done, trim off the excess putty tape, sit back, and enjoy a cold beverage of your choice.
