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Post by alittlebohemian2012 on Jun 18, 2012 7:51:23 GMT -5
Ok folks, so heres where i'm at. Literally! I was removing the screws from around the window when suddenly the floor gave way. Fun but short ride! I actually laughed out loud when it dropped. Second reaction - Grab the Camera! So, here is/are my questions for today. (I have two t-braces set up inside btw). 1. Is it ok to cut out as much of the damage from the table/bed unit back & then put in the new flooring for just this area? Previous Owner replaced the flooring from the door to the bed area (I'm afraid to see how he bungled that. He was not an enthusiast to say the least. 2. This is actually the bigger question at the moment. What type of metal do I use for the underside? Obviously the current stuff won't work. How thick? How do you mount it? I'm a visual person so if you have pics to share that would be awesome! 3. Sealing this puppy. I have a couple of pics I found where the repair person is applying a rubberized sealent on the underside. I'm assuming similar to the bed liner stuff. Thoughts on this? Recommendations? That is all for now. I have to get down there & starting cleaning & cussing. But i'm loving it! There are parts where I cringe while loving it...... Attachments:
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
Posts: 1,471
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Post by cowcharge on Jun 18, 2012 9:01:24 GMT -5
It's tough to tell from the pic, is there an aluminum belly pan you fell through too? If so, and all that's torn is the corner you fell through, I'd patch the tear and leave it in place. I don't see how you could replace the whole thing without completely removing the house from the frame, although I suppose you could make new aluminum patches that covered the squares between the steel frames (If I understood your question correctly). My '76 didn't have any sealant between the belly pan and the side skins, I'm guessing so as not to hold any water (not that it helped). To seal the surface if needed, like around a patch, there is lots of stuff out there. You could even use that spray rubber stuff, you know the one they use to make an aluminum boat with a screen door in the bottom on TV? Home Depot sells one made by Rustoleum in the spray paint section. Or undercoating from an auto parts store.
You can replace patches of plywood flooring, no problem, although you'll probably have to add some extra frame pieces to support the edges. It's hard to cut out plywood where it runs along a subfloor piece to leave some frame exposed for the new plywood to attach to, because of all the staples. But I'm more worried about the frame under the plywood. If water sat long enough to rot the ply, then the frame is probably rotten in a wider area. It's best to replace the long fore-and-aft floor subframes with single pieces of wood that run the entire length of the trailer, but if you sister butt joints or make good scarf joints between the carriage bolts they can be plenty strong enough. And you can replace any sized section you want, as long as you make good strong joints connecting to the good frame. There are some pics of mine being done in pieces in the restoration section under "'76 Shasta rebuild".
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Post by txmcook on Jun 18, 2012 11:41:45 GMT -5
We have a 64 that's in process of redo. It had a ton of rot in the walls, floor, ceiling, etc. My blog has a ton of pictures in no order but it shows all kinds of shots. www.txmcook.blogspot.com
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