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Post by Glendette on Jul 10, 2012 21:11:04 GMT -5
I am about to remove all of the edge trim, replace butyl tape and replace all of the screws. Question is...do I buy stainless or zinc? I plan to leave the aluminum skin unpainted. The guy at the fastener store thought stainless steel and aluminum was not a good idea. He suggested sealing zinc screws with a clear sealant instead.
I am a bit overwhelmed by this project...scared to death I will not find any solid wood to screw into. There is a piece of trim, mostly horizontal (like where you would put an awning) and the screws popped out where it starts to curve to go vertical down the front and back of the trailer. I did find rotted curved wood framing in two of those locations but I really don't want to rip out any more of the ceiling. Any tips on getting the screws into something solid?
Should I buy longer screws?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated...thank you for your time.
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boandsusan
2K Post Member
Christmas parade 2012
Posts: 2,000
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Post by boandsusan on Jul 10, 2012 23:13:05 GMT -5
You need stainless steel screws. If your finding rotten wood.... it really needs to be replaced. Screws won`t bite into rotten wood, they will eventually vibrate out/loose, and then you`ll have leaks. When you remove the j rail and awning rail, you can take a peek at the wood under the edges of the skin. I`d replace any rotted areas that I found while I had the rail off, It would save double work down the road.
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Post by Glendette on Jul 11, 2012 14:33:29 GMT -5
I was hoping I'd be able to see the wood from the outside.
My fingers are crossed!
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Post by dawgpound on Jul 11, 2012 14:50:04 GMT -5
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Gone Kayaking
1K Post Member
long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
Posts: 1,600 
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 11, 2012 22:49:07 GMT -5
lol Ross 1400 screws sounds about right. Glendette, as hard as it is to consider having more work to do you'll regret not doing it right later and it will take longer in the end. You may be able to replace a considerable amount of the rotten wood you find fairly easily. Once you take the rails off, the skin will be very easy to see under to the wood.
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Post by Glendette on Jul 12, 2012 7:31:23 GMT -5
Is there any way of replacing the wood from the outside? without replacing the ceiling panels?
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cowcharge
1K Post Member
I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 12, 2012 9:31:59 GMT -5
Depends on if the ends of the rafters are rotten too, and the tops of the studs. I did mine from both sides with the skin on but opened up. My damage wouldn't have allowed me to do it with paneling in place.
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Post by Redwings on Jul 12, 2012 9:38:10 GMT -5
I am with cowcharge. We are finding that working from both the inside and outside works well. A small section at a time so you can maintain the shape of the original framing.
But this really only works if you have to pull rotten paneling out anyway.
Sometimes our screw holes are a bit reamed out but the wood is still good. That's when the old round wooden toothpicks come out of our pockets into the screw holes. Gets a good bite (but only do this if the wood isn't rotten...won't work then.)
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