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Post by joecamper on Mar 2, 2013 12:53:04 GMT -5
These were taken from a camper I stripped tast summer. What your looking at is a 2by2 that has been ripped in half then seporated by a block in the middle and then the ends of the upper half are bowed and fashoned into a trusswith some small 1/4in stapled from the side at those ends. The ends remain the same 2by 2 you started with. Attachments:
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Post by universalexports on Mar 2, 2013 13:00:45 GMT -5
looks like a great idea with a few advantages, the shape tells me roof (outside) would be sloped from curb side to street side, this would help with drainage off top and snow/ice piling up maybe, and with that shape it would be nearly impossible for the roof to sag.
the down side is you are loosing some headroom.
I have designed into my camper as I was doing the interior layout to have 2 beams from floor to roof that is part of the bunk beds help hold the ceiling up, and the bathroom front wall as well will help.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 2, 2013 13:03:01 GMT -5
NONO you would loose no headroom at all. look again. You can make them any height you like. The one in the forground was the original the one I used in the rear is smaller. This is an awsum upgrade for any flat roof. I am going to make a prototype truss like these but out of 1by that could be incorporated into Shasta and Scottys with 1by roof framing that is desporatly in need of something better What im thinking of will not require ripping the 1by in half but rather adding another shorter top piece by 3 in on each end and tapering the end to ly down flat short of the edge by 1 in. A small crown at the middle and a way stiffer structure that spells win win Stand by Attachments:
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Post by universalexports on Mar 2, 2013 13:16:05 GMT -5
is it not thicker than the original? it still looks about an inch and half thinker than the solid one behind it. the block in the center looks about the same thickness as the one in the background, but I am not real familiar with the internals of a Shasta roof, I havent tore into mine,
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 2, 2013 19:52:03 GMT -5
That is the basic idea for the crown around the vent hole in the ceiling. If there isn't one when I get a trailer, it has one when it leaves. A 3/4 inch frame around the vent hole on top raises the skin in all directions and hopefully allows runoff. Unfortunately those only last until the cats start using your trailer as a free way or it snows. I kinda like this idea myself if the top skin needs to be replaced on a square shaped trailer. No good for a canned ham.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 3, 2013 8:10:56 GMT -5
It works fine for hams.
What you described is simply another way of achieving the same result accept for 1 big difference.
By simply framing the vent opening with 3/4 you are also adding to weight and strain on the stock 2by 2 frame giving it even more reason to sag.
Try your method on a shasta or scotty with 1by roof members and you would be sagging the ceiling more than pushing the roof skin up
The truss pushes the roof skin up AND strengthens the framing member at the same time.
Just try it you will like it.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 8:54:03 GMT -5
It's a far cry from what I found holding up the 1970 16SC (toaster style, flat roof).  It seems only an inch or two rise at the center. Although the larger arch seems like a good idea, I am at a loss to picture how the roof skin will fit back on, trying to stretch over so much greater a rise. |
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Post by joecamper on Mar 3, 2013 10:05:25 GMT -5
OK point well taken lets go further.
Your point is of real concern if the mod is too drastic it will impede your ability to reattatch the roof skin.
However couple a tings here.
1st to start all the ones ive come across are not real taught and wavy and buldgy and would easily accept a slight crown without creating reassembly issues.
Here is my solutoin to figuring out the right amount and your not guessing and you know itis going to fit back togeather right.
when you pulling it apart pull the roof vent out and the inside ceiling panel with the cut out for itand expose your frame.
Then pull those 2 pieces on either side of the opening out.
Then take what I pictured or your modified truss too same principle, (that is also a way huge upgrade and improve ment as well as easier to construct for the novice)
AND experiment a little before taking any skins loose.
Make a couple and stick them in and get on a ladderand look. I think you will be amazed at the amount of crown you can get before getting "overtight" with the skin.
It does not take much, just a smidge, to both get water off the top and signicantly stiffen up the ceiling
Also as your going forward and rearward with the rest of your framing and decide to do the entire roof like this, the very last one before the front and rear roof seams has to be 1/2 of the gain you are using for the rest of the field. This keeps the seam where the radius meets the roof from buldging.
or you could just do the 2 around any roof vents that too all alone is a good idea
Hope this helps
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Mar 4, 2013 2:19:51 GMT -5
Well...
I've never had any rafter sag with a roof vent shim. The shim weighs very little if done correctly. My rafters are generally new and supported with square tubing if necessary. The roof vent must be higher than the surrounding roof.
There are trailers with saggy roof metal that can accept roof trusses and some are really tight. Depends on the trailer.
This roof truss idea will work well with new metal. I don't like the fact that the original manufacturers used such skimpy wood for the ceiling, either, but sometimes it has to built as original.
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cowcharge
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I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 4, 2013 16:45:08 GMT -5
You could always buy a 70s model, with the arched 1.5"-wide rafters that are 2.5" deep in the middle...  |
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znorm
100 Post Member
Go camping before the big one gets away!
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Post by znorm on Mar 5, 2013 0:34:53 GMT -5
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Post by joecamper on Mar 7, 2013 21:34:01 GMT -5
That is some work anybody would be proud of.
What you have reminds me of ceiling studs on a 1970s Champian Class-A motorhomes. They framed the whole thing in that same looking 21/2 in c channel.
Are your roof panels galvenized metal or aluminum. I would isolate the the 2 different metals with a layer of ducttape or something IMO What youve done is another good alternitave.
Very very nice
SIDE NOTE yes I admit it I also repaired a few of these Champians.
Had a Dodge big block 440 CID 727 tourqe flight. We had a fly on the windshield flat flat front winshield on the outsode by the wipers. Urged on by other crazy passangers we sped up to see how long it could hang on. At 90 I backed out of it slowed down and let the fly free. Is that crazy?? Youth what fun it was.
Do you think a workhorse chassis or possibly a ford motorhome with 460 cid (have also owned both)could have kept up??
NOT that 440 was still pulling hard when I let up.
Sorry for the thread creap
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znorm
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Go camping before the big one gets away!
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Post by znorm on Mar 8, 2013 0:39:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the input. I am going to use the channel and duct tape to create a separation between the metals that are different from each other. I will also wrap it in the tyvek house wrap. I found the perfect screws for the finish metal work on the exterior. They are a 8x5/8 stainless steel truss pan head screw. I had a guy polish some of my aluminum and instant reflection. I was all excited about finishing my trailer. I also a got quote on painting my 64 Airflyte, $2600 if I do the prep. $800 more if he does it. That is just 1 quote so far.
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valewf
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Post by valewf on Apr 27, 2013 21:00:23 GMT -5
How about fashioning a roof "beam" out of a 2X4 cut down on a band saw? It would be 3/4" on the ends and 1-1/2" at the crown and 4" wide. I am currently working on the roof of my 67 compact and am considering this fix. The PO "fixed" the ceiling around the vent. He removed the damaged roof panels and rotted roof framing. He then scabbed new pieces and attached them to the old wood with metal brackets. Here is where it went south. The screws that he used split the wood and resulting in very weak roof. Kind of saggy. The roof goop gave up the ghost and now I have a leak. I probably needed to poke around before I laid my money down. Attachments:
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mobiltec
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Restoring The 57 Shasta
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 27, 2013 23:17:57 GMT -5
On a small trailer like 15 to 18 feet, just the extra 3/4 inch curb up on top of the top vent does the job. Make sure and add insulation thickness to take up the space. Also helps when cats jump off a roof or out of a tree on to the top of your trailer making a nice dent in the top. Lots of insulation packed in there will make that big dent pop right back out with a little smack from the inside on the ceiling. Tip of the week.
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