corner leaks

[tiajannet]

My 69 compact leaks in the front right corner. I cut out the paneling, only the moldy area, it was very moldy, I wore a mask.
the stud has only surface mold I treated it with spray and forget. It's what I use on my mobile home mold and mildew disolved the black. threw out the removed paneling. Problem it's raining and I can now see the stud absorbing water. but i can not see extactly where it's coming in. How or what to do to stop the leak? Inspected the J rail , chalking looks OK, screws are tight, no holes in skin. the po twice back, redid the skin and interior. of course he said there was no leaks. I knew there was. now i'm really wet.
How should I approach this?

[joek]

You can try to do water testing to find the source of the water entry. Spray controlled areas with water, while a second person is inside watching for the water to appear. Start a little lower than where the water is showing up, spray the area, wait keep an eye on it, then move upward a little. The idea is to find what IS NOT leaking until you narrow it down to what IS. Good luck.

I've done a fair amount of leak testing on homes. We have saying, "there is no such thing as a window that doesn't leak, only a window that doesn't leak now". The same thing could be said about out trailers.

[vikx]

I agree on water testing with a helper.

Caulking does not stop leaks, especially at the J rail. If the PO didn't re-putty the J rail, it is likely the culprit. At least I hope so.

Another scenario is bad roof metal. Little pin holes can form and leak insidiously. Also, if the roof has been coated, it is particularly hard to find any leaks. Water creeps under the coating and can travel quite a ways before dribbling down.

There is an air pressure test that an RV shop can perform. It involves pressurizing the trailer and using soapy solution to test for leaks. Good luck to you.

[harrison429]

ah hahaha I read about those tests vikx and while I think the idea is awesome, I find it hard to believe these old trailers are air tight enough to even be able to perform the test. I don't know what kind of windows are on a '69 compact but there's nothing airtight in a jalousie window!

I think it's going to come down to the needle in the haystack investigation and wish anyone good luck when it comes to leaks.

[tiajannet]

WOW so many respones so fast Thanks the roof is unpainted plain metal. I was considering coating it. that's my next questions bare metal aluminum how to treat it and then what is good but not real hard to deal with.
I was considering removing the j rail and re chalking. the putty in tape/strip form won't work because the molded shape of the skin is deep. it leaves day light big time. I tried a small area it showed me real quick why the po used chalking in a tube. it's white maybe it's silicone?
with the rain the other day in an hour or so the corner stud was wet to touch and sight.
I'll let dry again and do the wet test you suggest. I'm pretty sure it's up high.
I have jalousie windows can't imagine a pressure test. that'd be fun to watch.
thanks folks more later.

[mobiltec]

It's kinda like the weekest link theory in my opinion. Once a leak developes in a trailer it's time to just re-seal the entire thing. All parts of the trailer are of the same age and wear and if one spot is starting to leak, it's a good bet that others will follow. It can be done in two weekends. J Rail for one weekend. Windows for the other. 5 rolls of putty tape usually does the job.

[Deleted]

Gotta second Mobiltec on this one. I sympathize if there is silicone involved. But it is still likely to start somewhere else if it has started anywhere.

Knowing the shape of the '69, I would add the roof vent to the list of "just do it" reseals. If it leaks around the edges it is just as likely to run to the corners as anything. Also, the J-rail is not what seals the corners, the roof corner seals to the top of the wall with putty and then the J-rail is installed over that with putty. The corners should be taken apart and re-taped also. It sounds like a lot, but it isn't much more really than pulling some nails and scraping the joint apart, taping, and nailing it back down. The numerous screws in the J-rail hold it all back together tightly, and the J-rail seal is added protection.

The roof would have originally been painted. There really isn't a need for coating unless you repaint it. If it is totally unpainted there is no reason that it shouldn't be polished out and left bare.

[vikx]

I agree. Caulking is a mistake and will need to be removed to get the trailer water tight.

There is a way to re-putty the J rail. It's a matter of looking at it and seating the rail into the putty to seal the top edge. If the skin has dips, a thin piece of putty tape will take care of it.

Coating the roof will cause you more trouble in the long run. I would paint it.

[Scott]

I recommend getting a couple of 2"x6" boards long enough to span the roof from edge to edge, climbing a ladder up to the roof, and inspecting the metal inch by inch for nail holes. My 62 astroflyte had about a dozen tiny nail holes that occured when the roof had sagged due to what I assume was huge snow load, and pushed the metal layer of the roof against trim nails used on the inside during initial construction. I know the load must have been large at one time due to the hundred or so ice chopper and shovel creases visable in the skin. I sealed each nail hole with a dab of RV chalk and a square 2"x2" patch of eternabond tape. I also removed and resealed the vent, removed all silicone, cleaned roof with laquer thinner and put 4" wide eternabond tape on all roof seams. I spent a couple of days up on the roof on my hands and knees but it was worth the effort. Regards, Scott

[boandsusan]

The skin on a 69 is the same as the skin on a 72. We put little pieces of putty tape on the low areas first and then put a whole strip of the putty tape on. If you still see any small areas that your not sure about after you`ve screwed the j rail back, just squash an extra bit in with your finger or putty knife. Squash in as much as you can and then cut the excess away with a knife.

[tiajannet]

Thanks for the reponses, Got busy with my home front missionary job, Just got back to the Shasta.
I searched for the leak spot, determined it's approx. height. found it using the water hose outside, since it's just me, I stuck a piece of cloth between the stud and the skin inside and watered the outside starting low and checking the cloth. Bingo when I reached six inches from the top the cloth was soaked, the drip made itself known. I took off the j-rail, found a very rusty area of putty right where i figured the leak would be, I scraped off the putty on skin and j-rail. 95% clean. Is this clean enough??? plus the skin is not like orginial, it's scalloped, up and down pattern. PO used a chalking. Question; what kind of chalking??? Geocel was mentioned, where to get it??? Bo and Susan-you said use layering, fill the low dips then top it with a contiunous strip. Did i understand that correctly??? There are some meant to be cuts in the skin at the curves above. IS this where jb weld works??? Lots of Questions I know, but I'm on a learning curve here. And ya'll are my source of information. Is that your 72 in the picture? It looks like my shape, I'd like to see your front edge. Yes my skin looks like that from what I can make out. Mine rides alot higher, I have two steps at the door.
Thank you. for all the help be blessed Jannet

Read more: vintageshasta.proboards.com/thread/8268/question-sealing-edges##ixzz2US3IhCFK

[vikx]

Do NOT use caulk. You need RV PUTTY TAPE to reseal the edge trim, vent, windows, etc... Susan was talking about putting a 2nd piece of putty in low areas (or scallops). JB weld? Please do some research before working on your trailer.

[tiajannet]

Hi vikx you've given me advice before i'm listening again. I have putty tape. the skin is clean. the weather is against me, high winds, rain threats. corner covered and waiting. got time to research.
SO fine friend what do you suggest? the JB weld was suggested for the cut metal to seal it, yes or no? makes some sense. I agree no to any more caulk, there were emtpy spaces under the rail. could hold moisture. ON putty with uneven skin.... two layers of putty seems to thick, one layer alot of daylight.
Can it be squeezed flat for the second layer??? I assume it will mesh together and become as one. Then trim the excess that pushes out???
ON metal repairs, I found a hole in the skin, thankfully way down low, like three inches from the bottom edge. No leaking. What to use is patch hole? got tape over it today.
PLUS someone mentioned polishing the bare metal roof. How???
thanks for all the help, ya'll are wonderful. tiajannet

[Deleted]

You have the idea already for the low spots on the siding. A doubled layer of putty will seem too much, but in areas that you can, bang it down gently with a mallet, and then trim off the excess. This will push the putty into the voids and fill the low spots.

So far as tears holes and other metal maladies, I will wait here for the professionals...with you...

[Hamlet]

Apr 5, 2013 23:51:18 GMT -5 vikx said:

I agree. Caulking is a mistake and will need to be removed to get the trailer water tight.
Coating the roof will cause you more trouble in the long run. I would paint it.

Hamlet says "DITTO!" to all those smart guys (and gals). You're at the part where lots of folks give up and just re-sell their trailers. It takes, like someone said, a couple weekends to do it right. Those couple weekends will serve you well in the long run. Mobiltec said once that people are always asking him about "the easy way" to do a repair job. He said that there's no easy way, just the right way. Good luck!

[Gone Kayaking]

Check out this thread from Gremlin Guy. Goes through the whole process of metal patching worked well for me.
vintageshasta.proboards.com/thread/1700/skin-patching

[vikx]

Good replies above. The only thing I can add is to use waterproofing tape (very sticky: Lowes) on the underside of the split or tear. (if you can get to it) Geocel gutter seal might help. I haven't tried JB weld.

[tiajannet]

Thank you all for wonderful ideas. If this rain would quit I could get to it.
question: can I put a dap of Geogel in the screw holes before the putty and screw???
Scott mentioned going on the roof that scares me. I'm doing this me myself and I, doing the roof ummmmm
Not painting the roof but polishing was suggested what kind of polish on aluminum? the metal feels rough, i am in a coastal area, salt and dampness. How to treat this???
vikx what do you mean waterproofing tape??? tell me more about the product, please.
Has anyone ever used FlexSeal??? I've heard of it for emergency use but no followup.
thanks gang for the info. i will check out that repair site. thanks

[vikx]

Again: do not use caulk or spray on cr*p. There is NO QUICK FIX.

Geocel gutter seal works well for screw holes, just a tiny dab. The putty goes on the trim, then attach with a couple of anchor screws. Then Dab the rest of the holes (not a lot)before screwing; it will ooze out just a bit. Wipe each head with a rag before it cures.

You need cross boards on the roof to support your weight and maybe a piece of plywood.

Roofs are better off gently sanded and repainted rather than polished. I use the funky silver bumper paint-goes on thick and dries quickly. The roof metal is old and may have oxidation. If polished too heavily, there could be little holes!

Weatherproof tape is available in the paint section at Lowe's. Silver on one side and stickeeee on the other.