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Post by rkymtnman on Jul 21, 2010 9:18:06 GMT -5
OK so it is a good thing that this is a totally rewarding phase of my reconstruction because doing it as a "one man show" is a serious exercise in patience!  I have one side of my camper re-skinned and like with everything else, I am learning as I go. I only wish I had started with the street side so I could make my mistakes on the side I won't see all the time I ordered 24-inch wide sheets with Pittsburgh edges on them. They came out really nice. The old siding was a 36-inch and a 48-inch sheet. From this picture: i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/rky_mtn_man/Vintage%20Cardinal%20Restoration/IMG00082-20100321-1611.jpg...you can just make out the rusted screws that are installed into the siding between the door and rear corner. I suspect this was done because the siding panels were so wide. My question is - do you all think I need to put screws in the siding in these locations when my panels are only 24 inches wide and I stapled them at every framing member under the Pittsburgh edge? Seems like it would be overkill to me.... Here is where I am at as of last night. i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/rky_mtn_man/Vintage%20Cardinal%20Restoration/DSC01514.jpg...still have a bunch of trimming to do, have to cut out the window and bend the bottom. Going to borrow a pair of pneumatic shears / snips tonight from a buddy as these hand operated tin snips I have been using have left me feeling crippled Last question - when I install the windows and doors - I have all new butyl for behind it. I was thinking I would stick the butyl to the window frame, place it in the opening, then predrill for my new stainless screws. I have a couple tubes of Trem-Pro - is this the stuff to shoot in the holes before advancing the screws? Should I put a bead of trem-pro in addition to the butyl or is that overkill? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! |
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Jul 21, 2010 9:37:13 GMT -5
I'd put the screws in the field. The aluminum might expand in the sunlight. You probably don't have a screw at the bottom of each sheet and a screw in the field will help to keep the pieces in place. You can order white painted stainless screws from Boltdepot.com, as well as many good hardware stores carry them.
I'm not sure what the best product would be to squirt in the hole, but Tremco 166 would probably be fine. You might try leaving it out in the sun for a while to heat it up so it flows better. Don't put the Tremco under the windows, the putty tape will be fine and much easier to deal should you ever need to pull the window again.
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Post by rkymtnman on Jul 21, 2010 11:09:48 GMT -5
Great point (as usual  . I will add some for the field. I kind of like the stainless on white look too. Also - I hadn't thought about actually having to *remove* the windows again Guess that needs to be considered as well! |
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Post by rkymtnman on Jul 26, 2010 10:48:58 GMT -5
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Post by erin on Jul 26, 2010 16:42:08 GMT -5
Wow, the new siding looks incredible - how did you cut the openings for the windows? We're going to be redoing the skin on our '65 compact in a couple of months and I've been stymied by the prospect.
Thanks
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Post by rkymtnman on Jul 26, 2010 17:17:50 GMT -5
Well.......
I started out with a good pair of tin snips / hand shears. I quickly felt like an arthritic old man (instead of just an old man....). I borrowed a pair of pneumatic metal shears and they made all the difference in the world. You do have to be very careful with them - they they "get away from you" you can do a LOT of damage in a very short time / LOL. they can be bought at Harbor Freight very inexpensively.
...and while you are there, get yourself a 1/4 crown pneumatic stapler to attach the skin to the frame. It is fun and very rewarding but ALWAYS wear gloves as that metal gets really sharp.
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Post by erin on Jul 27, 2010 12:25:28 GMT -5
Great, thank you for the tool tips, did you trim the edges of the panels to fit after they were attached or did you work off a template of the old?
Are you able to reuse the edge trim or are you sourcing new edging (and if sourcing new, where did you find it)?
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Post by rkymtnman on Jul 27, 2010 17:22:15 GMT -5
I just put the whole sheet up on the camper and trimmed it on the camper. Seemed like the easiest way to do it. I changed my profile somewhat (not on purpose and the old skin would not have made a good template anyway since I went to 24-inch wide panels as they are easier to work with then the 36-inch and 48-inch panels that were original. I only have me to do all this so lots of clamps and careful planning have been my friends! As for the edge trim, I am replacing all that as well. The Metal Company in Denver is where I am getting that material from but I suspect it can be purchased about anywhere. They made all my skin, fab'd the custom baggage door and are making my roof next week. They have a whole pile of that J-channel in their shop in Summit White or mill finish. I am planning to use the mill finish as I like it better. www.themetalcompany.com |
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Post by erin on Jul 28, 2010 11:40:26 GMT -5
Thanks, I'll check locally for the edge trim then... we're a ways off from putting the new skin on (still have a lot of structural supports to replace) but the info you're sharing is super helpful.
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Post by rkymtnman on Aug 22, 2010 1:45:37 GMT -5
Little update - after a very long day, I am so close I can almost taste it I have the front all bent, the roof bent to the rear window with only about 5 feet on each side to finish the sides. I put a layer of butyl in between the roof/front/back and the side skin. A quick plug for The Metal Company - these people are the best. I had them do all my metal work and I couldn't be happier. I got to talking with the older guy over there (owner?) on Friday when i picked up my roof and he asked me if I had ever installed one of these before. Of course, the answer was a resounding no and I asked for any tips. He told me to forget about the 3" hand break pliers I had and use a rubber mallet and a 4x4 (about 18 inches long) wrapped in a towel to protect the paint. His method is to use the mallet on the edge at almost a 45 degree angle to get the bend started, then place the 4x4 on the roof (front/back) and beat the skin over to the side while applying a good amount of pressure to the 4x4. Once the corner/edge is created and crisp, you beat the side to get it to lay down. This produces a really nice crisp, clean edge. He said (and I proved) this would be WAY quicker than using the hand break. I think (and I guess that is really all that matters ) it came out great and I couldn't be happier with the "tightness" of the edge - even with the layer of butyl in between the layers of metal. In most places, you can't even tell there is butyl in that seam. 2 giant thumbs up for "TMC" in Denver. (Keep an eye on the heater/furnace section for an update on the heater "enclosure/insert" they built for me..... With any luck, tomorrow will be the maiden trip out of the garage for my project that started 6 months ago. It will be 100% waterproof (as far as I know... and ready to spend some time outside as of the afternoon. I think my VERY patient wife may actually shed a tear when she gets her garage back!! Thanks to joek for the info and help with my nagging questions Pictures to come after I get some sleep. |
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joek
250 Post Member
Inside Out
Posts: 324
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Post by joek on Aug 22, 2010 2:18:18 GMT -5
Congratulations. Can't wait to see some pics. Did you get any action shots?
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Post by rkymtnman on Aug 22, 2010 10:49:51 GMT -5
Congratulations. Can't wait to see some pics. Did you get any action shots? LOL - Too many. I think 95% of my time on this is "building" - the other 5% is taking pictures Installing the Gutter trim this morning/afternoon. slow process - want to make sure I get "first layer of butyl defense" as perfect as possible! It is supposed to be 97 degrees here this afternoon so I'll probably take a break and post some pics. |
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. I will add some for the field. I kind of like the stainless on white look too.