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Post by scanlon on Aug 1, 2010 18:00:38 GMT -5
Hello, I did not want to do this but I had to remove the rear skin to fix 1) the wiring 2) the rotted wood Once I made the repairs I decided to put butyl tape in between the skins(where the edges meet) as well as the drip rail. Well I had a hell of a time putting it back together and now it looks like crap, lots of tape showing and the rails don't look right. I was thinking maybe it was too much butyl tape but I just don't know. The rear skin had a bad dent on it that I straightened out as well as the drip rail Attachments:
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Post by egorspyle65 on Aug 1, 2010 18:37:16 GMT -5
I couldnt get the skin to fit back on with butyl tape between the skin. I just put it under the drip rail overlapping both pieces.
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Post by 61shastacompact on Aug 1, 2010 19:27:26 GMT -5
I think that if you trim away the excess squeeze out it should clean up OK.
Jim
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Post by franksshasta on Aug 2, 2010 9:27:38 GMT -5
Chances are that you will never get the skins to fit like they did when it rolled off the factory floor. IMO, "not" putting the tape between the skins is a waste of effort. That tape, especially where the body curves back, is the only waterproof membrane that exists. The drip edge butyl does nothing to keep water out. I didn't concern myself with getting the drip edge in "exactly" the same position. I figured that if I'm 1/8 inch off or so that the screw would actually have solid wood to bite into and not a tired old screw hole that may or may not bite. This was said previously, but trim off all excess butly.
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Post by 61shastacompact on Aug 2, 2010 12:39:46 GMT -5
On the back curve of the drip edge that Frank is talking about, I ran a small bead of Trempro Polyurethane between the trailer body and the drip rail for added waterproofness and to clean up the seam. This was in addition to the two layers of butyl tape.
Jim
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Post by scanlon on Aug 2, 2010 13:59:12 GMT -5
I removed the rail again thinking I did something wrong, but I didn't. I left the butyl tape on and screwed it back in. It looks better but the other side has large gaps that I filled wtih more butyl tape. I know that side will never be the same since it had several large dents that I straightened out before putting it back in. Better be safe than sorry. Thanks
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Post by franksshasta on Aug 3, 2010 20:40:10 GMT -5
I love the idea of putting extra waterproofing over the butyl on the lower curves. I think I may be doing that as well.
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Post by rkymtnman on Aug 22, 2010 1:34:40 GMT -5
Well - after reading this thread many many times, contemplating the finished product and talking to as many people as I could, I ended up placing a layer of butyl between the roof/front/back and the sides. It really went smooth as silk. I am still pretty surprised. I will put a second layer on in the morning before I install the gutter trim. Looks like I may actually be sleeping in this thing next weekend after all  |
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Post by staryn on Mar 2, 2011 23:25:18 GMT -5
So to make sure I have the original method correct you put butyl tape between the lip of the roof and the siding then another strip of butyl tape between the drip rail and the roof? Does it make it easier to bend out one side of the roof before setting it back down on the trailer so you don't scrape the butyl tape off while installing the roof?
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vikx
3K Post Member
Posts: 3,556
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Post by vikx on Mar 3, 2011 1:29:35 GMT -5
I use tacky roofers tape rather than RV putty between the skins. It is thinner and butyl; available at roofing companies.
When installing the edge trim, I apply the putty to the trim flange with about an 1/8" sticking above the top. I place a dab of sealer in each screw hole before mounting it. After screwing in place, you can take a wood block and rubber hammer and "seat" the top of the flange into the putty. I do this the whole length. Once the trim is seated, I trim the excess putty.
One last thing-it is much easier to work with putty at 60 degrees. If it's too cold to be sticky, warming both the trim flange and putty helps.
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Post by sparky1 on Mar 3, 2011 13:32:53 GMT -5
I'm having the same exact problem---3 times i have tried--still leaks-
im really frustrated-
sparky1 in Va.
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Post by atozzi1400 on Mar 4, 2011 19:52:46 GMT -5
I used a silicone based caulking to seal up the gaps. I also put a dab on each screw as I placed them back in for extra waterproofing. I found that I can get a lot more use per dollar out of caulking than with the tape and the end product looks clean.
I also used the caulking for sealing up the drip rail and windows. So far no leaks, supposed to be a lot of rain early next week, let you know if I have any problems.
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Post by mjkissel on Mar 13, 2011 19:29:20 GMT -5
When I did mine it ended up the same way. Then I took a laminate roller and rolled the seams. I trimmed the excess tape and it looked great! The laminate roller was a Kobalt brand from lowes that was $11. Easiest way to make seams look great.
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See my rebuild pics at: 
