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Post by hueytownalss on Feb 24, 2012 16:23:09 GMT -5
I am working on rebuilding my 60 Shasta and cannot see, because of all the gunk abd silicon, exactly how the side windoes are supposed to seal. I have read here with interesest about theses windows but have not seen clear pictures of how they seal. If they seal likecit appears they do..........then they don't. I will attempt a new design withvthe same clean look! Any Ideas?
What ever I decide I can promise one thing...... no leaks! EVER!!!
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Post by thehorsepeople4 on Feb 24, 2012 21:00:32 GMT -5
Are you talking about the way the glass window is sealed into the frame or what you would use to install the window into the trailer and prevent leaking. One is very different from the other. Could you include a few pictures of your window and the trailer?
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 24, 2012 23:50:08 GMT -5
If you figure out how to deal with those funky side windows in a way that maintains their original look and doesn't invite water you will have tons' o folks beating down your door for the step by step tutorial. Here's the theory of how it works
The window is held up against the skin by the screws into the framing all around, and then silicone gasket seal (sold by VTS) pressure fits against the glass and over the skin. I think I explained that right...I'm sure I'll be corrected if not.
All of us I think hate these windows, know that despite our best efforts that they will probably leak again...and are amazed that they ever worked at all.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 24, 2012 23:58:31 GMT -5
You are correct, Shasta dinette windows are infamous for leaking. You can replace the original gasket from VTS. The glass is set against the gasket with a thin bead of sealant below the gasket. The multiple screws pull the skin into the glass. Once the glass is set in place and almost snug, trim sticks are added to the window frame inside, against the glass. The outside screws can then be carefully tightened to seat the gasket. Over tightening will cause the glass to break, so it takes some trial and error. I use trim screws for the trim sticks in case they need to be adjusted. Let us know your solution. Attachments:
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 25, 2012 0:01:16 GMT -5
Here's the same window from the outside... Attachments:
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 25, 2012 0:02:06 GMT -5
And finally, the trim covers the sticks and dresses the window. Attachments:
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Post by hueytownalss on Feb 25, 2012 1:28:39 GMT -5
Yes to all of the above. When done as in the pics by Vikx above, it is a very clean look. However, it appears to be very tricky to keep it from leaking. Those are the FIRST clean and clear pics I have seen. Thanks Vikx.
Mine are so caked up with paint and silicon (there ought to be mandatory prison time for anyone to use silicon on anything other than an aquarium), it was difficult to tell exactly how they were supposed to be. I will attempt to build an actual sealable frame that will have the same look. I am not to thst point yet. When I get the entire trailer apart I wil work on that, and post pics here. Wish me luck.
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Post by '59PinkDeluxe on Feb 25, 2012 11:10:42 GMT -5
OMG... I think I need to redo mine!! I didn't realize there was a gasket you could buy at VTS. Waaa! That would have gone a long way to making it look better. Basically, I used butyl on the inside, pressed the glass up against that, braced it with the trim pieces, then used ProFlex RV around the edge on the ouside which was sooo messy! Vikx, your pic looks so awesome. I'm gonna cry  . Would anyone mind posting the link for that gasket... I'd probably ending up buying the wrong one! |
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 25, 2012 12:53:42 GMT -5
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Post by 65callie on Feb 25, 2012 13:15:17 GMT -5
(there ought to be mandatory prison time for anyone to use silicon on anything other than an aquarium). LOL You are right!! |
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 25, 2012 13:24:10 GMT -5
I did the process as VikX recommends but I still don't trust mine and I can see why in desperation one would want to use silicone. We are all praying for you to come up with an elegant and leakfree solution...and you have to promise to post step by step instructions with pictures and sources.  <3 |
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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 25, 2012 15:26:16 GMT -5
(there ought to be mandatory prison time for anyone to use silicon on anything other than an aquarium). No doubt I have to replace almost all my skin because the PO used silicone one every window, and every seem, there's no way I know of to get the silicone oil off to repaint! |
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Gone Kayaking
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long live the Vintage Shasta Trailer Forum....we're gone but you are not forgotten!
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Feb 25, 2012 17:01:07 GMT -5
Schweet..... there should be a stripper that can remove it and save the skin. As for the windows, try the caulk remover. Also usually the caulk is on the gaskets which are also replaceable. Others should weigh in here.
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Post by hueytownalss on Feb 25, 2012 22:53:23 GMT -5
Looks like this is a topic if interest. It will take awhile (I have to work all the time) but I will get it done . New design, same classic look.
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Post by universalexports on Mar 25, 2012 21:37:47 GMT -5
WOW, I just ordered some of this from them, I just redone the wood in that corner of my camper, my window was just siliconed in as far as I could tell, gobbs of it, I went to VTS and other websites and just looked at the styles of gaskets, and this one seemed to me to make the most sense to keep leaks out, guess I guessed right. |
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Mar 26, 2012 2:55:46 GMT -5
I guess the solution is to keep the trailer protected under cover when not camping. There is no way to prevent eventual leaks with the original seals.
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Post by hueytownalss on Apr 6, 2012 11:23:26 GMT -5
Agree with that Vikx, but if we can put a man on the moon surely we can keep a window from leaking. I am not to that point yet, (down to frame though), but when I do get there I will come up with something. Can't beat the original look, though!!
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Post by universalexports on Apr 6, 2012 11:54:01 GMT -5
the best thing I have found is "trim Loc" you can get it that holds an 1/8 or 1/4 inch window, the only problem is I cant find any that will fit on a wall wider than 3/4 inch, I guess you could plain down the wood around the window to a little less than 3/4 inch so it would fit over the wood and aluminum together. this would work,,, but then you would have to figure out a nice inside window sill to add to the inside. the gasket goes on then you add the locking seal to make it tight. you can get it by the foot here, www.perfectfit.com/15976/154177/Weatherstrip--Trims/Self-Sealing-Weatherstrips--Self--Locking--2-Piece--Boats--Equipment-Etc.html  |
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Apr 7, 2012 1:01:10 GMT -5
There is a more liquid-like sealant sold in local auto and hardware stores. It is made for sealing windows and if used very sparingly, will help seal gaps between the glass and gasket. (yes, they will be there) Excess MUST be removed immediately to prevent smears on the glass. I will try to get the brand tomorrow.
These windows are leaks waiting to happen....
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Post by universalexports on Apr 7, 2012 7:47:07 GMT -5
are you refering to the 3M window gasket adhesive, it comes in black or yellow, and is really runny, and sticky. I've used that on lots of stuff and it is great, but you have to be careful using it, that runny stickie stuff will get everywhere if you arent careful.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Apr 7, 2012 10:27:40 GMT -5
Glad I don't have those windows. I bought some clear, non-silicone sealer in a squeeze-tube at the hardware store for my j-channel screws that is not runny at all, but it's too sticky and thick to smooth out, unless I was to get the same solvent it contains to put on my finger so it doesn't stick when I smooth it out. Any reason you can't just run a bead of regular white window caulk on the outside of the glass and smooth it with your finger?
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cowcharge
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I suffer from Shastasomiasis.
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Post by cowcharge on Apr 7, 2012 10:28:57 GMT -5
As for removing silicone, I think a razor blade followed by a solvent cleanup is your best bet, although mine has every type of sealant on it except silicone.
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vikx
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Post by vikx on Apr 8, 2012 0:39:58 GMT -5
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embee
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Post by embee on Jul 9, 2012 9:42:01 GMT -5
I hope this thread is still open to dumb questions. I love Vikx's solution to the dinette windows. I'm ready to order that Standard Glass Seal from VTS. But, which way does it go in? Does the glass go in that slot, or does the slot fit over the metal? (I'm thinking the former....) I still think I'll put butyl tape between the skin and glass..
While I'm at it....what the heck are those "sticks" for? Why not just frame the window to size in the first place, rather than "shimming" it to fit? I see no obvious advantage to the sticks.
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Post by avannoy on Jul 9, 2012 11:11:03 GMT -5
I hope this thread is still open to dumb questions. I love Vikx's solution to the dinette windows. I'm ready to order that Standard Glass Seal from VTS. But, which way does it go in? Does the glass go in that slot, or does the slot fit over the metal? (I'm thinking the former....) I still think I'll put butyl tape between the skin and glass.. While I'm at it....what the heck are those "sticks" for? Why not just frame the window to size in the first place, rather than "shimming" it to fit? I see no obvious advantage to the sticks. The slot fits over the metal. See the pics on this page: www.vintagetrailersupply.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDesc=N&PhotoNumber=5&ProductCode=VTS-195Also check Hugh Currin's page: www.currin.us/trailer/DinetteWindow.shtmlThe plywood strips on the inside are just an extremely low-tech way of holding the glass tight against the back side of the seal. I agree that someone needs to devise a 21st century solution to this 50 year old problem. DH and I are currently looking at some possibilities and if we come with anything, we'll definitely share it with the group. Good luck! Angel |
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embee
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Post by embee on Jul 9, 2012 12:24:46 GMT -5
Thanks, avannoy. Great pics. The 'sticks' on our '62 were NOT plywood, at least not when I took it apart. Just regular lumber. In random thicknesses. I'm learning a lot...
Ordered the seal from VTS. I'm putting some kind of sealer behind/under that strip. These windows are NOT going to leak in my lifetime.
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 9, 2012 13:25:24 GMT -5
saw there were some new posts here and got all excited because I though avannoy had come up with the 21st century design solution! :-) here's hopin' Mine are holding up okay so far.......
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Post by shastamtnbikegrl66 on Jul 9, 2012 20:57:28 GMT -5
Been working on my remodel, not total re - do. was so excited to come home with my new paint color because I actually had a wall to paint. and what a surprise was this wet stuff falling outta the skies over arkansas, well,,, there went my beautiful paint job,the big window in the back was gushing water and around my A/C unit that PO installed for me. and a side window that cannot even open because it has so much caulking on it !so dont even know where to start.
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Post by avannoy on Jul 10, 2012 6:22:21 GMT -5
One thing we thought of was applying a narrow, clear film such as door edge guard on the outside, along the joint between the Hehr seal and the glass (see link below). That one is 0.4" wide so the idea would be to get half on the glass and half on the seal. It would almost definitely seal out the rain, but the questions are - what will it look like? How will it stand up to weather over time? Would it be possible to remove if it didn't work out? www.amazon.com/Xpel-R3023-Clear-Universal-Protection/dp/B003EP3ACS/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t |
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Gone Kayaking
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Post by Gone Kayaking on Jul 10, 2012 13:02:31 GMT -5
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. Would anyone mind posting the link for that gasket... I'd probably ending up buying the wrong one!
<3
